A new exhibition opening October 19 at the Cleveland Museum of Art (CMA) unites nearly 300 rare works by the greatest designers of luxury goods at the end of the Gilded Age. Fabergé, Tiffany and Lalique were the first in their field to market themselves as “artists” and not just mere jewelers or craftsmen. This show explores the dynamic rivalry between them and highlights some of the key patrons and society personages of the time.
The exhibition of sumptuous objects from the CMA and rare loans from public and private collections worldwide is the first comparative study of the work of three of the greatest designers of the Twentieth Century. It will be on view until January 19, before traveling to the Palace of the Legion of Honor in San Francisco.
Curated by Stephen Harrison, CMA’s curator of decorative art and design, “Artistic Luxury: Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique” brings together nearly 300 objects from more than 50 international lenders, including Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II and His Serene Highness Prince Albert of Monaco, as well as institutions and private lenders in London, Moscow, St Petersburg, Paris, Lisbon, Berlin, Hamburg and across the United States. The exhibition reunites works by Peter Carl Fabergé, Louis Comfort Tiffany and René Lalique that have not been presented together since they were first shown at the 1900 World’s Fair in Paris, where the designers’ rivalry took center stage.
Each designer was known for his own characteristic style and achievement, which will be highlighted in this exhibition through separate galleries devoted to each of the three artist jewelers. Their designs will also be presented within the context of galleries showcasing materials, techniques, styles and motifs and the influence of high society in their work.
Exhibit highlights and rarities include five imperial Easter eggs by Fabergé, one imperial Easter egg by Cartier and the imperial basket of flowers by Fabergé, all designed for the Russian tsars and their family and later sold by the Bolsheviks.
A debut presentation in the United States of the Magnolia window by Louis Comfort Tiffany and Tiffany Studios is a highlight. This stained glass window was purchased in Paris in 1901 for the collection of Baron Stieglitz, a close courtier of Tsar Nicholas II in St Petersburg, and has only recently been exhibited in Russia.
Also on view will be Edward VII’s cigarette case, on loan from Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II; 36 Fabergé pieces from CMA’s collection, a gift from Cleveland’s India Early Minshal; and major examples of Louis Comfort Tiffany’s Favrile glass, including stained glass and a large selection of his incomparable glass lamps.
René Lalique’s extraordinary designs for artistic jewelry incorporating stylized insects and birds, plant forms, mythical creatures and idealized female figures are included in the exhibition. Lalique’s renowned glass will also be featured, including an important new CMA acquisition, his Frogs and Lily Pads vase.
Visitors will be able to see glittering jewelry featuring diamonds and rare gemstones by Tiffany & Co., along with its Adam’s vase from the Metropolitan Museum in New York, the star of its booth at the 1900 World’s Fair.
Further highlights will include a chapel window commissioned by Cleveland industrialist Jeptha Wade, which served as the US pavilion entrance at the 1900 World’s Fair. A variety of works by Tiffany’s many rivals and competitors during the period, including major examples of work by Cartier, Gorham and Boucheron as well as many smaller artistic firms working in Russia, France and America, will be included.
The Cleveland Museum of Art is at 11150 East Boulevard. For information, www.ClevelandArt.org or 888-262-0033.
