Published: January 2, 2001
Great Finds for Buyers at East Coast Jewelry Auctions
NEW YORK CITY – In December Doyle New York offered an array of jewelry and objets de vertu in an auction of important estate jewelry. Collectors from around the world bid for a selection that captured the spirit of the Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco and Modern eras.
A variety of pins were offered in the form of bumble bees, butterflies, birds, flamingos, frogs and mice, and set in assorted diamonds, rubies and sapphires. Among the prime lots was a pave diamond and ruby bar pin with birds. The two lovebirds, set with diamonds and ruby eyes and perched on a flower-laden branch, the flowers set with 16 round rubies, sold for $11,500. In addition, a sapphire and diamond dolphin pin realized $2,415, and a diamond and enamel butterfly pin achieved $2,530.
The top seller was a pair of Art Deco carved Indian emerald and diamond earrings, signed by Cartier, which brought $43,700. The dangling earrings were designed as a tapering three-tier pagoda and set throughout with assorted diamonds and black onyx trim.
The craftsmanship of the Edwardian era demonstrates why pieces from this period represent one of the finest in the history of jewelry making. From this era was a Cartier brooch that exhibits all the classic Edwardian jewelry characteristics, such as the intricate and delicate patterning, millegrain detailing and use of quality white stones. The brooch was created in an oval shape and is set in platinum with a one-carat kite-shaped diamond that was further enhanced by a sprinkling of over 160 assorted old mine diamonds. It sold for $11,500.
An antique turquoise, diamond and ruby bangle bracelet of 18-karat yellow gold by Italian designer, Carlo Giuliano (1831-1895), sold for $7,475. Giuliano won the patronage of Queen Victoria, King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra, and was also popular among the artistic community at the time, including Sir Edward Burne-Jones and Charles Ricketts, the book illustrator. Also featured was a pair of antique girandole earrings (dating from 1860-1870), set with 88 old mine diamonds, that reached $7,475.
In Washington, D.C., Weschler’s auction of jewelry, coins and watches on December 9 offered gemstones, as well as solitaire diamond rings and Art Deco pieces, which showed very strongly.
Watches opened the sale, with a Patek Philippe Calatrava attracting the most interest. Never worn and in its original presentation box, intense bidding on the phones and in the room pushed the piece to $6,325 against a $¾,000 estimate. Coins proved to be a good value, with all the lots selling, but only one lot inching above its pre-sale estimate.
A solitaire diamond ring weighing approximately four carats brought $20,700 in heavy bidding against a $12/18,000 estimate. Another solitaire diamond ring set with a 1.60-carat brilliant-cut diamond sold for $8,050.
An Art Deco diamond and ruby cocktail bracelet by J.E. Caldwell & Co. was from a popular era, and offered name recognition. Estimated at $12/18,000, the bracelet realized $20,700. A second J.E. Caldwell & Co. Art Deco cocktail bracelet, this one all in diamonds, brought $9,200 against a $5/7,000 estimate. A gentleman’s yellow gold and malachite five-piece dress set from Tiffany & Co. doubled the low pre-sale estimate, selling for $1,092.50.
Art Deco pieces continue their popular run, with a diamond and blue sapphire brooch, circa 1930, bringing more than double the low pre-sale estimate to realize $3,220. Another Art Deco brooch, with more than six carats of diamonds, brought a within-estimate $7,475.
Natural colored pearls were popular with collectors, with a cultured natural colored black South Sea pearl and diamond necklace attracting keen bidding. The single strand outpaced its pre-sale estimate of $4/5,000, realizing $9,200. A cultured natural colored light golden-yellow freshwater pearl two-piece ensemble realized $1,035 against a modest $4/600 pre-sale estimate.
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