Each of these necklaces were handmade with sewn metal. To the far right, the Majesty pendant featured a natural ruby, 18K rose gold thread and 18K palladium white gold. Caps Brothers, Liverpool, N.Y.

Review & Onsite Photos by Carly Timpson

NEW YORK CITY — From October 23-26, luxury accessories dazzled at the tenth annual New York City Jewelry & Watch Show (NYCJAWS) hosted by the Palm Beach Show Group. Billed as “a premier jewelry exhibition of spectacular breadth, depth and scope,” NYCJAWS took over the Metropolitan Pavilion in Manhattan’s Chelsea neighborhood for a Thursday through Sunday show of worldwide dealers and jewelers exhibiting antique, estate, modern and contemporary jewelry and watches for all the finest tastes.

Jamie Kantor, the group’s chief operating officer and show director, commented, “This milestone year represented more than a decade of growth and commitment to excellence. The mix of antique, estate and contemporary jewelry brought together a community of passionate professionals and collectors who continue to make the New York City Jewelry & Watch Show a must-attend event on the annual calendar.”

Kelsi Monteith, Palm Beach Show Group’s executive director of communications, added that show attendance, from both dealers and shoppers, was strong and represented steady market trends. “Each year, the New York City Jewelry & Watch Show continues to strengthen its position as one of the most important jewelry events in the country. The turnout this year demonstrated how both the trade and the public value an environment where quality, trust and discovery come together in one extraordinary setting. The feedback from exhibitors has been overwhelmingly positive. Many noted the high caliber of attendees, impressive show security and the strong buying activity throughout the weekend. It’s rewarding to see so many of our long-time participants eager to return, alongside an influx of new exhibitors who elevated the show’s mix of offerings.”

The nature-inspired engagement ring, left, was one of contemporary designer Alla Rocklin’s more recent pieces, while the larger, more colorful ring to the right showcased her traditional style. Parkland, Fla.

To help celebrate the event’s tenth year with some extra panache, the Palm Beach Show Group invited a select number of contemporary designers to showcase their work in a dedicated section of the show “highlighting emerging and established jewelry artists who are shaping the future of the industry.” These artists included Alla Rocklin (Parkland, Fla.), Sean Hill Designs (West Palm Beach, Fla.), Dana Bronfman Contemporary Fine Jewelry (New York City) and Lauren Chisholm Fine Art Jewelry (Jupiter, Fla.).

Rocklin, who reported having a “very decent” weekend, was joined in her booth by a very loyal supporter who was more than happy to celebrate her success: her husband, Dmitry. Inspired by natural elements — things that live, grow and move, like gardens and the ocean — Rocklin creates one-of-a-kind rings, pendants and earrings with brilliant gemstones, using a lost wax casting technique and traditional metalsmithing. While the humble designer shared about her craft and showed us videos of her process, Dmitry pulled out two of his favorite rings his wife had made. The choices, he told us, exemplified how far she’s come in her artistry. One of the pieces was a from an older, classic design line that she created, featuring a black opal accented by a Ceylon orange sapphire, Colombian emeralds and moissanite, all set in 18K green gold. The other, a more recent endeavor, was an engagement ring with a central two-carat pear-shaped diamond accented by round diamonds on a 14K gold twig- and branch-form band.

Designer Dana Bronfman posed with a selection of her “otherworldly” jewelry. The large pendant at the center is her Persistence Leaf Chalcedony Necklace — 3-inch-long lavender marquise-shaped chalcedony having an 18K yellow gold “leaf vein.” To the right is one of her signature pieces, the Black Goldie Geometric Cuff, a trapezoidal rutilated quartz set in 18K yellow gold on a blackened silver cuff with her oculus open space design, accented by diamonds. New York City.

Dana Bronfman was set up with her jewels just across from Rocklin. While Bronfman’s designs are also influenced by the natural world, her pieces are primarily in deep earth tones rather than vibrant colors. She shared, “Most of my pieces are black rhodium-plated sterling silver and 18K gold, or oxidized silver. I use unique gemstones and a lot of quartz. I use elevated materials with earthy tones to make otherworldly pieces.” Since NYCJAWS focuses more on antique luxury jewelry, Bronfman noted, “this show is totally different from others I’ve done before, but it’s been great and I’ve made some great sales.”

Other positive reports came from dealers, including Dana Kiyomura, owner of the New York City-based Keyamour. Kiyomura brought a curated collection of antique jewelry, including a 1940s nasturtium necklace made with 14K gold enamel and garnets. This paired well with other floral pieces such as brooches and rings. She said, “I believe this is my seventh or eighth show with the Palm Beach Show Group at the Metropolitan Pavilion. Every show is professionally set up and operated, and this show had excellent personal service and security. I found the attendance to be notably stronger this year with an enthusiastic crowd of antique jewelry buyers. At Keyamour, our sales of one-of-a-kind Nineteenth and Twentieth Century antique jewels were very strong. We sold elegant Victorian earrings, a pretty Edwardian necklace, as well as strong sales of signed mid-century pieces.”

Gem Zar US, also based in New York City, was exhibiting at NYCJAWS for only a second year, but associate Christy Forrest was excited to be back, reporting an excellent first year experience. “We loved this show last year and it’s been great for us again this year. Jamie [Kantor] and Riley [Lassiter, event coordinator] are awesome.” All of Gem Zar’s offerings were new rather than antique or estate pieces, with a focus on high-end colored stone jewelry. Forrest highlighted a few exceptional rings, though we thought everything in the booth sparkled nicely.

Hays Worthington reported having a “very nice” show. Sarah Lee Martin highlighted a 1920s Art Deco platinum diamond bracelet and some gold pieces from the 1940s. New York City.

L. J. West Diamonds was most recognizable for their large assortment of Argyle Pink Diamonds from western Australia, of which they were one of the founding collectors, and today they are one of the largest authorized partners in the world. The New York City jeweler’s offerings included everything from loose stones to extravagant bracelets and even two custom-designed rabbit brooches made by executive vice president Scott West in collaboration with Raymond Yard. These bunnies, a golfer and a waiter, were recreated with Argyle diamonds rather than the rubies used for the jackets in Yard’s original Art Deco pieces.

Steve Fishman, managing director of Steve Fishman Gallery, Great Neck, N.Y., shared, “We have been doing this show since its inception. New York-based shows are always on our menu. People come to this show because of the quality of the dealers and the top-shelf merchandise that they bring. My booth has a mix of signed and period jewels and unusual watches. I try to bring the best of the best with me for the discerning and well-informed clients that we get. It’s a challenge to keep up with them sometimes. At this show we sold a Van Cleef and Arpels bracelet that had a famous owner. Perhaps it will come into the public marketplace in the future. We left on Sunday very satisfied with our sales and the new contacts that we made during the show.”

In closing, Kantor shared, “The success of this year’s milestone tenth anniversary show speaks to the resilience and excitement within the jewelry industry. From the moment doors opened Thursday to the final minutes on Sunday, there was a steady flow of serious buyers and collectors ready to do business. That level of enthusiasm reaffirms why New York remains such an essential marketplace.”

The Palm Beach Show Group’s next Jewelry & Watch Show will be at the Hyatt Regency in Miami, January 8-11, and next year’s New York City Jewelry & Watch Show will be October 22-25.

For information, www.palmbeachshowgroup.com or 561-822-5440.