Virginia Salem holding the “Sweet Pea” brooch by Marcus and Co. While at auction, she sourced this piece from a Midwest collection that was slated for the melt bin. Currently, this is in the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s American Jewelry collection. Photo courtesy Linehan Photography.

It may once have been true that experts found a job at an auction house or retail gallery and stayed there for the duration of their professional career. That happens less and less these days, as auction house specialists, curators or experts move around, trying on different hats for an ideal “fit.” One of these is Virginia Salem, who I had the pleasure of being a colleague with at a New York City auction house more than a decade ago. When I saw her selling things on social media recently, I reached out for the latest story, which she was happy to share with our readers.

You’ve worked for many of the leading auction houses in NYC, Boston and Philadelphia but, since 2022, you’ve been working for yourself as Virginia Salem Vintage. What inspired you to strike out on your own?

If I am being honest here, I would have to say that my last job at a major appraisal firm was “not the right fit.” From there, I considered going back into auction, panicked a bit, then started up buying and selling jewelry. I started to get phone calls and emails from people I had worked with over the last three decades wanting to do business, and I never looked back from there. With no website, in two months I was offered appraisal opportunities, started doing shows, learned as much as I could about different venues, talked to dealers and appraisers; from there I knew I would be okay. Still no website!

As Virginia Salem Vintage, you primarily appraise and consult on jewelry — do you mean you advise people on what jewelry to buy…or where to sell what they have… or both?

I do a few things: First off, I am a Graduate Gemologist and all types of jewelry is what I advise on — mainly, when they go to sell, many families have inherited jewelry and are not interested in wearing it. So many times I hear “I just do not dress up anymore,” even in NYC, people are not dressing like they used to. My answer to that is always the same thing. I love to report to them that luckily, there are still people buying, you just have to know who they are. Which is where I come in with consulting. If the items are not jewelry, I consult on the best venue to sell, sometimes privately, sometimes with an auction house. My network is strong, thanks to many years working in the industry, as well as participating in Antiques Roadshow.

A 14K gold Retro bracelet, circa 1940, together with a circa 1934 Patek Philippe, a very fine and rare, rectangular, two-tone, 18K pink gold and platinum wristwatch. Currently on offer from Virginia Salem Vintage.

Do you also sell jewelry? What can you tell us about what you sell and where you sell it?

I do sell jewelry. I love this aspect of what I do because I am a people person. I am still getting my feet wet doing shows, but for now I am showing at Brimfield and some local shows in New England. Buyers seem to find me and it is great fun meeting other dealers whether they specialize in jewelry, Midcentury Modern furniture, paintings or prints at these shows.

Do you specialize in any particular period or types of jewelry?

Because I’ve seen and had the privilege of handling so many types of jewelry at auction, I’ve gotten pretty comfortable assessing many periods. Each piece of jewelry is different. For one, if you have a piece with a large diamonds, that is pretty straight forward, but then you need to consider if it is a unique shape, and if so, it then could become a connoisseur piece, which would not be appreciated by many, but a handful of people in the world would therefore pay a premium for it. Then there is period jewelry, which sometimes has limited intrinsic value but could be by a designer, house or a time period which is coveted so will sell for much more. Commercial jewelry is probably the least interesting, and there is a lot of that out there.

You’ve been a jewelry appraiser on The Antiques Roadshow for 28 continual seasons — are there any appraisals from the Roadshow that stand out in your mind?

I get asked that a lot and have to say I draw a blank every time because I do not! My sweet spot is hearing the stories that the guests on Roadshow have; just this summer, in Maine, a guest had an Art Deco sapphire pendant, which belonged to her great grandmother. The guest never wore it and brought it up to my table. The first thing she said was, “this is probably not worth much” and “it lives in the safe deposit box.” Well, it appraised at auction for $70,000!

Can you comment on the current market for jewelry — are there new/recent trends among buyers?

I see many younger people appreciating “vintage jewelry.” They are training their eye, and I am very hopeful that they will come to appreciate the better items over time. Jewelry is expensive, but they like the Victorian gold plated watch chains, vintage charms, whimsical designs. So, I’m very optimistic.

—Madelia Hickman Ring

[Editor’s note: to reach Virginia, virginiabsalem@gmail.com or on Instagram, @VirginiaSalemVintage.]