Scarab watch, 1880-1900.
Switzerland, gold enamel, diamonds, emeralds, steel and
rubies.
Jewels of
Time:
UTICA, N.Y. - The aesthetic brilliance and exquisite
craftsmanship of ornamented historical timepieces is featured in
a major exhibition at the Munson-Williams-Proctor Arts
Institute's Museum of Art.
The exhibition will remain on view until November 4, and will
travel to the Tyler Museum of Art, Tyler, Texas, from September
26, 2002, through January 12, 2003. It will be at the Telfair
Museum of Art, Savannah, Ga., from April to June 2003. The
exhibit will then travel overseas in Europe, and perhaps Asia and
South America, until 2007.
"Jewels of Time: " explores watches within the history of
decorative arts and jewelry. The exhibition includes 80
skillfully crafted and visually appealing European watches. They
are drawn from a larger collection of nearly 300 timepieces that
was assembled in the late-Nineteenth and early Twentieth
Centuries by Thomas R. Proctor (1844-1920) and Frederick T.
Proctor (1856-1929), two of the founders of MWPAI.
The Proctor watch collection is among the largest and most
important in the United States. Comprising timepieces dating from
the late Sixteenth to the early Twentieth Centuries, it has the
added distinction that it is intact. Few watch collections
assembled in the United States at the turn of the Twentieth
Century have fared as well as the Proctor collection.
Viola de Gamba watch, circa 1875-1900. Movement: Carl Wurm in
Wien, No. 307. Case: casemaker cameo J.W., cameo A, Vienna
guarantee mark for 1872-1922. Gold, enamel.
The collection is a reliable guide to one aspect of the Proctors'
interests and taste, and, in a larger sense, of
turn-of-the-century attitudes and patterns of collecting. As a
group, the watches provide an overview of 300 years of
timekeeping as watches evolved from jewelry and novelty items to
precision timepieces.
The exhibition is divided into categories that reveal the
opulence of each piece. The intricate scenes depicted on the
repousse cases of many of the silver and gold watches, for
example, illustrate the height of metalsmithing techniques. The
exquisite enamel watches feature highly detailed miniature
portraits and still lifes framed in pearls.
Semi-precious stones were also a favored ornamental element, and
examples in "Jewel of Time" range from diamond highlights on a
bug-form watch, to a jewel-encrusted watchcase and chatelaine.
The collection also includes Renaissance-style watches of rock
crystal, watches made for the Turkish market, clever automatons
and novelty watches in forms that vary from a skull to a
blossoming flower.
Watchmaking began in the late Fifteenth Century and reached an
aesthetic and technical pinnacle in the late Nineteenth Century.
Initially, watches were worn as jewelry and served as status
symbols for rich and powerful individuals. When personal
timekeeping became more significant in daily life, watches were
used by a broader segment of the population in Europe and,
eventually, in the East and the Americas. The making of watches
developed from a craft to a sizeable, competitive industry that
attracted the finest scientists and artists. Watchmaking requires
numerous artisans with specialized skills. Success in the market
place was due in large measure to synergy among horologists
(watch scientists), casemaker and decorators. As horologists
refined timekeeping with technical advances, the form of the
watch changed to accommodate the innovative movements (working
parts). Serendipitously, new shapes provided fresh space for a
wider range of ornamental possibilities, which followed
prevailing trends in decorative arts and jewelry.
The Collectors
Thomas Redfield Proctor, born in Vermont and educated in Boston,
served in the United States Navy during the Civil War and
afterward settled in Nyack, N.Y., where he managed a hotel. He
moved to Utica about 1869 and bought Bagg's Hotel and the
Butterfield House in Utica and the elegant Spring House in
Richfield Springs, a resort town about 20 miles south of Utica.
Proctor also owned an area farm to supply his hotels with
award-winning dairy products and fresh produce. In 1891 he
married Maria Munson Williams (1853-1935), the youngest daughter
of Helen Munson (1824-1894) and James Watson Williams
(1810-1973).
While the couple honeymooned in Europe, Helen acquired the house
next door to her home, Fountain Elms (now the decorative arts
department of the Institute's Museum of Art), for her daughter
and son-in-law. Around the time of his marriage to Maria
Williams, Thomas sold the two Utica hotels but retained the
Spring House until it was destroyed by fire in 1897. Thomas's
other business ventures include the establishment of banks in
Utica and Richfield Springs and service as an officer of both
institutions. He was also a member of numerous local boards.
In 1894 Frederick Towne Proctor (Thomas's younger half-brother),
married Rachel Williams (1850-1915), Maria's older sister.
Frederick was born in Cambridge, Mass., and schooled in
Manchester, N.H. and Boston. After working in the wholesale
grocery business, Frederick moved to Utica in 1888 and worked in
several commercial enterprises. He was, among other endeavors, a
vice president at Quigley Furniture Company and president of Hart
and Crouse Company, a manufacturer of heating apparatus. The
couple resided at Fountain Elms.
The Proctor brothers and their wives dedicated themselves to
civic work and philanthropy. Thomas and Maria supported many
charities, including the local orphanage, and they donated
significant acreage to the city of Utica for the development of
an extensive park system. Thomas's obituary in the Utica
Observer noted, "Few cities have such outstanding examples of
public spirited citizenship as the man who honored Utica and whom
Utica honored."
Frederick served on many community boards and was a member of
several organizations, including the public library and the
county historical society. He and Rachel underwrote the
construction of a local hospital. Frederick was remembered in the
newspaper as achieving "works of outstanding usefulness and
benefit to the people of this city and vicinity, and many
generations yet to come will be better in health...and spirit
because of lasting institutions which he helped to found."
The Proctor couples, neither of whom had surviving descendants,
traveled extensively in the United States and abroad and actively
collected decorative arts and European paintings. Their
benevolences include the creation of the Munson-Williams-Proctor
Institute, a repository for their various collections and a
response to their sensitivity to practical instruction as well as
cultural edification of the community.
The Proctors' watch collections were assembled by each brother
individually in the late Nineteenth and early Twentieth Centuries
but were given as a single collection to the institute in 1935.
Though the siblings were not the most affluent of the nation's
turn-of-the-century private watch collectors (men such as Henry
E. Huntington, J. Pierpont Morgan, James Ward Packard and H.J.
Heinz), their assemblage was certainly one of the foremost
collections. When traveling throughout the United States and
Europe they scoured auctions and sought dealers to acquire the
best pieces at reasonable prices.
Star-shaped watch, 1875-1900. Austria, silver gilt, rock
crystal, enamel.
The watch collection remained on view at the institute until 1958
when Fountain Elms was undergoing restoration and the
contemporary museum building was under construction. At that
time, the collection was placed on long-term loan to the
Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C.; the watches returned
to the institute in 1988. "Jewels of Time" is the first major
exhibition of the collection.
Exhibition Catalogue
The exhibition's accompanying catalogue contains an in-depth,
scholarly essay by internationally recognized jewelry expert
Janet Zapata and an essay on the history of the collection by
MWPAI curator of decorative arts Anna Tobin D'Ambrosio.
The book offers an exploration of the major techniques used to
ornament watches and discussions of the most significant examples
in the collection. An illustrated checklist of the entire Proctor
collection, based on research by watch historian Jonathan
Snellenburg, concludes the book.
The catalogue, the sixth in an ongoing series the museum has
published since the mid-1980s on aspects of its varied holdings,
is a comprehensive, scholarly guide to the entire collection, it
is intended for specialists and collectors, but features an
accessible text and attractive, full-page color illustrations for
a general readership.
It supercedes the only other publications about the collection,
two rare, turn-of-the-century books: Ferdinand T. Haschka, The
Thomas R. Proctor Collection of Antique Watches (New York:
privately printed, 1907); and The Frederick Towne Proctor
Collection of Antique Watches and Table Clocks (Utica, N.Y.;
privately printed, 1913).
The Munson-Williams-Proctor Institute is at 310 Genesee
Street. Telephone, 315-797-0000.